Condominium Drywall

The regulatory authority for condominiums in Florida is the Department of Business and Professional Regulation Division of Land Sales, Condominiums, and Mobile Homes. (referred to hereafter as "The Division") One function of The Division is to resolve disputes between parties involved with condominium issues, and these disputed issues may include insurance matters. On April 12, 2006, The Division issued Declaratory Statement # 2006-007 dealing with an insurance issue that partially involved drywall. The complete Declaratory Statement may be viewed or downloaded by clicking here.

Before giving an executive summary of what the Declaratory Statement said, let's look at what the statute says about the insurance responsibility of the condominium association master property.

718.111 The association.

(b) Every hazard insurance policy issued or renewed on or after January 1, 2004, to protect the condominium shall provide primary coverage for:

1. All portions of the condominium property located outside the units;

2. The condominium property located inside the units as such property was initially installed, or replacements thereof of like kind and quality and in accordance with the original plans and specifications or, if the original plans and specifications are not available, as they existed at the time the unit was initially conveyed;

Consider the case for drywall. There is no doubt that drywall is addressed under paragraph #2 since it is condominium property inside the units. In cases where the drywall is the original drywall initially installed by the builder the statute is very clear: the condominium association master policy shall provide primary coverage. The same can be said for replacement



drywall if it is a like kind and quality replacement for the original drywall. Suppose, however, that a unit owner decided that he didn't like his combination living/dining room and put up (at his own expense) a new wall between the rooms, thus creating two separate rooms with access via an interior door. Since the drywall in this example was not initially installed as part of the original plans and specifications the condominium master policy is not statutorily required to provide primary coverage. In fact, the CP 01 91 Florida Changes – Condominiums endorsement states that additions owned by the unit owner which were not part of the original plans and specifications are not covered by the master policy. In such cases it would be left to the unit owner to cover the drywall and interior door, ideally through the HO-6 policy with an adequate limit of Coverage A.

In looking at the Declaratory Statement on page 8 of 11, item #10 states the following:

10. The association is responsible for insuring the drywall in the units, whether it is perimeter drywall or interior drywall, because it is responsible for insuring "the condominium property inside the units as initially installed," but Perez is required to insure the water heater. § 718.111(11)(b), (c), Fla. Stat.

2008 Legislative Changes

During the 2008 legislative session House Bill 601 was passed. This bill made significant changes to various Florida Statutes dealing with condominium insurance issues. Even though other aspects of condominium insurance were affected by the new statutes, the drywall issue remains unchanged. The 2008 statutory wording states the following, applicable as of 1/1/09:

718.111(11)(f) Every hazard insurance policy issued or renewed on or after January 1, 2009, for the purpose of protecting the condominium shall provide primary coverage for:
1. All portions of the condominium property as originally installed or replacement of like kind and quality, in accordance with the original plans and specifications. 2. All alterations or additions made to the condominium property or association property pursuant to s. 718.113(2).

3. The coverage shall exclude all personal property within the unit or limited common elements, and floor, wall, an ceiling coverings, electrical fixtures, appliances, water heaters, water filters, built-in cabinets and countertops, and window treatments, including curtains, drapes, blinds, hardware, and similar window treatment components, or replacements of any of the foregoing.

While the actual wording in the 2004 and 2008 statutes is different, the end result is the same: In cases where the drywall is the original drywall initially installed by the builder the statute is very clear: the condominium association master policy shall provide primary coverage. The same can be said for replacement drywall if it is a like kind and quality replacement for the original drywall.


Drywall, whether it is on a perimeter wall or an interior wall, is the primary insurance responsibility of the condominium association. Drywall installed by the unit owner after initial construction of the condominium or the additional cost of upgraded drywall installed by the unit owner is the insurance responsibility of the unit owner. 

Code Construction of Tampa Bay Receives Best Of Houzz 2015 Award




Over 25 Million Monthly Unique Users Rated Top-Rated Home Building, 

Remodeling and Design Professionals in the United States and Around the World


Tampa Bay, January 22, 2015Code Construction of Clearwater Florida has been awarded “Best Of Houzz” for Customer Satisfaction by Houzz, the leading platform for home remodeling and design. The local remodeling contractor who specializes in great service was chosen by the more than 25 million monthly unique users that comprise the Houzz community from among more than 500,000 active home building, remodeling and design industry professionals.


The Best Of Houzz award is given in two categories: Design and Customer Satisfaction. Design award winners’ work was the most popular among the more than 25 million monthly users on Houzz, known as “Houzzers.” Customer Satisfaction honors are determined by a variety of factors, including the number and quality of client reviews a professional received in 2014. Winners will receive a “Best Of Houzz 2015” badge on their profiles, helping Houzz users around the world who discover and love a professional’s work to learn even more about that business’ popularity and satisfaction rating among their peers in the Houzz community.  


We love Florida and updating Florida properties with modern design and functionality

“Houzz provides homeowners with a 360 degree view of home building, remodeling and design industry professionals, empowering them to engage the right people and products for their project,” said Liza Hausman, vice president of industry marketing for Houzz. “We’re delighted to recognize Code Construction among our “Best Of” professionals as judged by our community of homeowners and design enthusiasts who are actively remodeling and decorating their homes.”


Follow Code Construction on Houzz


About Code Construction


Code Construction is a locally owned Florida based company whose mission is to provide old fashion customer service and communication


About Houzz

Houzz is the leading platform for home remodeling and design, providing people with everything they need to improve their homes from start to finish - online or from a mobile device. From decorating a room to building a custom home, Houzz connects millions of homeowners, home design enthusiasts and home improvement professionals across the country and around the world. With the largest residential design database in the world and a vibrant community powered by social tools, Houzz is the easiest way for people to find inspiration, get advice, buy products and hire the professionals they need to help turn their ideas into reality. Headquartered in Palo Alto, CA, Houzz also has international offices in London, Berlin and Sydney. For more information, visit


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Housing Construction on Upward Trajectory Despite Drop in November Housing Starts

Following an upwardly revised rate last month, housing starts in November slipped 1.6 percent to a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 1.028 million units, according to newly released figures from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development and the U.S. Census Bureau. Three-month moving averages for total and single-family production were at their highest levels since the Great Recession.  


“These numbers are in line with our latest surveys, which show that single-family builders are confidentthat the market is gradually recovering,” said Kevin Kelly, chairman of the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) and a home builder and developer from Wilmington, Del. 


“Over the course of the year, the number of houses under construction has been on an upward trajectory, signaling that housing is moving forward,” said NAHB Chief Economist David Crowe. “With strong demand, affordable home prices and favorable interest rates, we should see housing production continue to grow into 2015.”


Single-family housing starts were down 5.4 percent to a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 677,000 units in November, while multifamily production rose 6.7 percent to 351,000 units. 


Regionally in November, combined housing production increased in the Northeast, Midwest and West, with respective gains of 8.7 percent, 14.4 percent and 28.1 percent. Total production dropped in the South by 19.5 percent.


Issuance of building permits registered a 5.2 percent loss to a seasonally adjusted annual rate of 1.035 million units in November. Multifamily permits dropped 11 percent to 396,000 units while single-family permits slipped 1.2 percent to 639,000 units.


Regionally, the Northeast posted an overall permit gain of 27.4 percent. The Midwest, South and West registered respective losses of 7.3 percent, 10 percent and 5.6 percent.

What to do when broken pipe floods your home


Indoor flooding can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage to your home, and it's a nightmare to clean up. Here's what to do when you notice water damage and how to safely begin the process of remediation.

The longer water is allowed to stand, the more severe the damage will be. You must respond to a flooding crisis quickly and efficiently.

Check for Danger

Before doing anything, ensure the damaged area is safe to work in. Your main concern is electrical danger. As you approach a water damaged area, check for light fixtures and appliances that may have been damaged before, during or after the flood.

Be sure hot wires are not exposed as you begin to assess damage. If there is any risk of shock exposure, immediately turn off the power to the building and resolve the danger first.

Identify the Source

Water damage can come from three general sources:

  • Category I is clean, potable (drinkable) water. This is water comes from an overflowing sink, bathtub, broken water supply line or a fixture shut-off valve. This is the preferred source should water damage occur, since it poses minimal risk of contamination or respiratory danger.
  • Category II water is sometimes called "gray" water. It is not drinkable, but also not full of sewage. Category II water can include dishwasher run-off or washing-machine run-off. These sources contain soap and/or food contaminants but not raw sewage.
  • Category III water, sometimes called "black" water, is highly contaminated. It contains bacteria or chemicals harmful to touch, consume or inhale. Category III water must be removed by a professional with proper immunizations and personal protective equipment. Category III water can include any type of sewer back-up, water that has run across open ground before entering the structure, or anything related to a chemical spill.

Stop the Source

If the water is Category I or II, your next step is stopping the source. (If Category III, wait for a professional.) Be sure you know where your main shut-off valve is for your home's water supply and test it yearly to ensure proper function. If your leak is coming from an appliance or fixture with a shut-off valve, turn this valve off instead of the water to the entire building.


If a large amount of sewage is coming out of a drain line continuously there is a blockage in the sewer line or the municipal sewer system is malfunctioning in your entire neighborhood. Immediately call your city's waste water department and report the issue. They need to respond immediately to prevent the flow of sewage.

Prevent Further Damage

After you have identified and stopped the source of the water, take swift action to prevent further damage to household items and materials. This can include:

  • Furnishings: Immediately relocate furnishings immersed in water or sitting on damp flooring. This is especially important for wood furnishings, or those that have a stain finish prone to bleeding. Nothing ruins carpet quicker than bleeding, wet furniture. Also, furnishings made from wood composite, like MDF, will swell quickly when exposed to water, and are impossible to dry to their original look and strength.
  • Wall Coverings: Once the furnishings are out of the way, inspect the walls. If water has wicked up the drywall or plaster, immediately remove baseboards, wainscoting or wall-coverings. Water gets trapped behind these items and creates a barrier to drying, which creates a great spot for mold growth. Mold begins to grow on porous surfaces after 48-72 hours of dampness. If you encounter mold, cease your demolition and hire an expert. This is especially critical if you have children, seniors, or those with medical conditions in your home. Do not disturb the mold, as this releases spores into the air. Leave the drywall in place if no mold is present, it may be salvageable.
  • Flooring: Once furnishings are removed and wall-finishes are stripped to drywall, you can address the flooring. As a general rule, carpet and cushion (pad) damaged with Category I water can be cleaned and salvaged. Carpet cushion damaged by Category II water needs to be disposed, but the carpet can be sanitized and salvaged. Flooring damaged by Category III water needs to be disposed of immediately and the slab or sub floor treated with an anti-microbial chemicals. Again, leave this to the experts. It takes proper training to safely remove flooring damaged to this extent.


Set Up for Successful Drying

Drying a water damaged building requires knowledge and tools most homeowners rarely need. You'll probably want to contact a restoration company to assist with moderate to heavy drying.

If you have light water damage, you may be able to deal with it yourself. Place floor fans approximately 12′ along the room(s) perimeter, pointing the air flow in a clockwise direction. This creates a vortex with the air, pushing the air to the outside of the room.

If you have access to a dehumidifier, place it on the perimeter of the room to capture this moisture. Be sure to run the condensate line from the dehumidifier to a drain or out of the building. Releasing the condensation into a bucket in the room just creates more moisture in the room and slows drying.

If you had a Category I loss, and the carpet is wet, pull it from the tack strip and attempt to blow air under the carpet if possible. Light damage should dry overnight using this method.

That should all get you started—remember, the worse the flood is, the more important that you get some help from a professional. While you're at it, check out why flood insurance is a good idea for your basement or storm-prone apartment.